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ARUSHA
NATIONAL PARK
The
northern side of Tanzania’s sits, Arusha National Park a multi-faceted
jewel, situated afew hours away from Arusha town. The park is often
overlooked by discerning travelers, despite having an enriched diversity
of habitats.
It consists of a montane forest inhabited by inquisitive blue monkeys
and colourful turacos and trogons. From the northern safari circuit,
the acrobatic black and white colobus can only be located in this
region. Amid this forested region sits Ngurdoto Crater, whose steep
and rocky cliffs surround a marshy floor, home to buffalo herds
and warthog.
Resident lakes attract thousands of flamingoes and support a wide
selection of migrant waterfowl, shaggy bushbucks, giraffes, zebra
herds and dik-dik
The big five are not commonly resident at park however leopards
and hyenas are spotted from time to time.
The views of Mount Meru dominate dominates the park’s horizon
while the snow capped peaks of Mt. Kilimanjaro 50km away reveal
when the eastern horizon clouds clear.
KATAVI
NATIONAL PARK
Isolated, untrammeled and seldom visited, Katavi
is a true wilderness, providing the few intrepid souls who make
it there with a thrilling taste of Africa as it must have been a
century ago.
Tanzania's third largest national park, it lies in the remote southwest
of the country, within a truncated arm of the Rift Valley that terminates
in the shallow, brooding expanse of Lake Rukwa.
The bulk of Katavi supports a hypnotically featureless cover of
tangled brachystegia woodland, home to substantial but elusive populations
of the localised eland, sable and roan antelopes. But the main focus
for game viewing within the park is the Katuma River and associated
floodplains such as the seasonal Lakes Katavi and Chada. During
the rainy season, these lush, marshy lakes are a haven for myriad
waterbirds, and they also support Tanzania’s densest concentrations
of hippo and crocodile.
It is during the dry season, when the floodwaters retreat, that
Katavi truly comes into its own. The Katuma, reduced to a shallow,
muddy trickle, forms the only source of drinking water for miles
around, and the flanking floodplains support game concentrations
that defy belief. An estimated 4,000 elephants might converge on
the area, together with several herds of 1,000-plus buffalo, while
an abundance of giraffe, zebra, impala and reedbuck provide easy
pickings for the numerous lion prides and spotted hyena clans whose
territories converge on the floodplains.
Katavi’s most singular wildlife spectacle is provided by its
hippos. Towards the end of the dry season, up to 200 individuals
might flop together in any riverine pool of sufficient depth. And
as more hippos gather in one place, so does male rivalry heat up
– bloody territorial fights are an everyday occurrence, with
the vanquished male forced to lurk hapless on the open plains until
it gathers sufficient confidence to mount another challenge.
MOUNT
KILIMANJARO NATIONAL PARK
Kilimanjaro.
The name itself is a mystery wreathed in clouds. It might mean Mountain
of Light, Mountain of Greatness or Mountain of Caravans. Or it might
not. The local people, the Wachagga, don't even have a name for
the whole massif, only Kipoo (now known as Kibo) for the familiar
snowy peak that stands imperious, overseer of the continent, the
summit of Africa.
Kilimanjaro, by any name, is a metaphor for the compelling beauty
of East Africa. When you see it, you understand why. Not only is
this the highest peak on the African continent; it is also the tallest
free-standing mountain in the world, rising in breathtaking isolation
from the surrounding coastal scrubland – elevation around
900 metres – to an imperious 5,895 metres (19,336 feet).
Kilimanjaro is one of the world's most accessible high summits,
a beacon for visitors from around the world. Most climbers reach
the crater rim with little more than a walking stick, proper clothing
and determination. And those who reach Uhuru Point, the actual summit,
or Gillman's Point on the lip of the crater, will have earned their
climbing certificates.
And their memories.
But there is so much more to Kili than her summit. The ascent of
the slopes is a virtual climatic world tour, from the tropics to
the Arctic.
Even before you cross the national park boundary (at the 2,700m
contour), the cultivated footslopes give way to lush montane forest,
inhabited by elusive elephant, leopard, buffalo, the endangered
Abbot’s duiker, and other small antelope and primates. Higher
still lies the moorland zone, where a cover of giant heather is
studded with otherworldly giant lobelias.
Above 4,000m, a surreal alpine desert supports little life other
than a few hardy mosses and lichen. Then, finally, the last vestigial
vegetation gives way to a winter wonderland of ice and snow –
and the magnificent beauty of the roof of the continent
MAHALE
MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK
Set deep in
the heart of the African interior, inaccessible by road and only
100km (60 miles) south of where Stanley uttered that immortal greeting
“Doctor Livingstone, I presume”, is a scene reminiscent
of an Indian Ocean island beach idyll.
Silky white coves hem in the azure waters of Lake Tanganyika, overshadowed
by a chain of wild, jungle-draped peaks towering almost 2km above
the shore: the remote and mysterious Mahale Mountains.
Mahale Mountains, like its northerly neighbour Gombe Stream, is
home to some of Africa’s last remaining wild chimpanzees:
a population of roughly 800, habituated to human visitors by a Japanese
research project founded in the 1960s. Tracking the chimps of Mahale
is a magical experience. The guide's eyes pick out last night's
nests - shadowy clumps high in a gallery of trees crowding the sky.
Scraps of half-eaten fruit and fresh dung become valuable clues,
leading deeper into the forest. Butterflies flit in the dappled
sunlight.
Then suddenly you are in their midst: preening each other's glossy
coats in concentrated huddles, squabbling noisily, or bounding into
the trees to swing effortlessly between the vines.
The area is also known as Nkungwe, after the park's largest mountain,
held sacred by the local Tongwe people, and at 2,460 metres (8,069
ft) the highest of the six prominent points that make up the Mahale
Range.
And while chimpanzees are the star attraction, the slopes support
a diverse forest fauna, including readily observed troops of red
colobus, red-tailed and blue monkeys, and a kaleidoscopic array
of colourful forest birds.
You can trace the Tongwe people's ancient pilgrimage to the mountain
spirits, hiking through the montane rainforest belt – home
to an endemic race of Angola colobus monkey - to high grassy ridges
chequered with alpine bamboo. Then bathe in the impossibly clear
waters of the world’s longest, second-deepest and least-polluted
freshwater lake – harbouring an estimated 1,000 fish species
- before returning as you came, by boat.
LAKE
MANYARA NATIONAL PARK
Stretching for 50km along the base of the rusty-gold 600-metre high
Rift Valley escarpment, Lake Manyara is a scenic gem, with a setting
extolled by Ernest Hemingway as “the loveliest I had seen
in Africa”.
The compact game-viewing circuit through Manyara offers a virtual
microcosm of the Tanzanian safari experience.
From the entrance gate, the road winds through an expanse of lush
jungle-like groundwater forest where hundred-strong baboon troops
lounge nonchalantly along the roadside, blue monkeys scamper nimbly
between the ancient mahogany trees, dainty bushbuck tread warily
through the shadows, and outsized forest hornbills honk cacophonously
in the high canopy.
Contrasting with the intimacy of the forest is the grassy floodplain
and its expansive views eastward, across the alkaline lake, to the
jagged blue volcanic peaks that rise from the endless Maasai Steppes.
Large buffalo, wildebeest and zebra herds congregate on these grassy
plains, as do giraffes – some so dark in coloration that they
appear to be black from a distance.
Inland of the floodplain, a narrow belt of acacia woodland is the
favoured haunt of Manyara’s legendary tree-climbing lions
and impressively tusked elephants. Squadrons of banded mongoose
dart between the acacias, while the diminutive Kirk’s dik-dik
forages in their shade. Pairs of klipspringer are often seen silhouetted
on the rocks above a field of searing hot springs that steams and
bubbles adjacent to the lakeshore in the far south of the park.
Manyara provides the perfect introduction to Tanzania’s birdlife.
More than 400 species have been recorded, and even a first-time
visitor to Africa might reasonably expect to observe 100 of these
in one day. Highlights include thousands of pink-hued flamingos
on their perpetual migration, as well as other large waterbirds
such as pelicans, cormorants and storks.
MIKUMI
NATIONAL PARK
Swirls of opaque mist hide the advancing dawn. The first shafts
of sun colour the fluffy grass heads rippling across the plain in
a russet halo. A herd of zebras, confident in their camouflage at
this predatory hour, pose like ballerinas, heads aligned and stripes
merging in flowing motion.
Mikumi National Park abuts the northern border of Africa's biggest
game reserve - the Selous – and is transected by the surfaced
road between Dar es Salaam and Iringa. It is thus the most accessible
part of a 75,000 square kilometre (47,000 square mile) tract of
wilderness that stretches east almost as far as the Indian Ocean.
The open horizons and abundant wildlife of the Mkata Floodplain,
the popular centrepiece of Mikumi, draw frequent comparisons to
the more famous Serengeti Plains.
Lions survey their grassy kingdom – and the zebra, wildebeest,
impala and buffalo herds that migrate across it – from the
flattened tops of termite mounds, or sometimes, during the rains,
from perches high in the trees. Giraffes forage in the isolated
acacia stands that fringe the Mkata River, islets of shade favoured
also by Mikumi's elephants.
Criss-crossed by a good circuit of game-viewing roads, the Mkata
Floodplain is perhaps the most reliable place in Tanzania for sightings
of the powerful eland, the world’s largest antelope. The equally
impressive greater kudu and sable antelope haunt the miombo-covered
foothills of the mountains that rise from the park’s borders.
More than 400 bird species have been recorded, with such colourful
common residents as the lilac-breasted roller, yellow-throated longclaw
and bateleur eagle joined by a host of European migrants during
the rainy season. Hippos are the star attraction of the pair of
pools situated 5km north of the main entrance gate, supported by
an ever-changing cast of waterbirds.
RUAHA NATIONAL PARK
The game viewing starts the moment the plane touches down. A giraffe
races beside the airstrip, all legs and neck, yet oddly elegant
in its awkwardness. A line of zebras parades across the runway in
the giraffe's wake.
In the distance, beneath a bulbous baobab tree, a few representatives
of Ruaha's 10,000 elephants - the largest population of any East
African national park, form a protective huddle around their young.
Second only to Katavi in its aura of untrammelled wilderness, but
far more accessible, Ruaha protects a vast tract of the rugged,
semi-arid bush country that characterises central Tanzania. Its
lifeblood is the Great Ruaha River, which courses along the eastern
boundary in a flooded torrent during the height of the rains, but
dwindling thereafter to a scattering of precious pools surrounded
by a blinding sweep of sand and rock.
A fine network of game-viewing roads follows the Great Ruaha and
its seasonal tributaries, where , during the dry season, impala,
waterbuck and other antelopes risk their life for a sip of life-sustaining
water. And the risk is considerable: not only from the prides of
20-plus lion that lord over the savannah, but also from the cheetahs
that stalk the open grassland and the leopards that lurk in tangled
riverine thickets. This impressive array of large predators is boosted
by both striped and spotted hyena, as well as several conspicuous
packs of the highly endangered African wild dog.
Ruaha's unusually high diversity of antelope is a function of its
location, which is transitional to the acacia savannah of East Africa
and the miombo woodland belt of Southern Africa. Grant's gazelle
and lesser kudu occur here at the very south of their range, alongside
the miombo-associated sable and roan antelope, and one of East AfricaÆs
largest populations of greater kudu, the park emblem, distinguished
by the male's magnificent corkscrew horns.
A similar duality is noted in the checklist of 450 birds: the likes
of crested barbet, an attractive yellow-and-black bird whose persistent
trilling is a characteristic sound of the southern bush, occur in
Ruaha alongside central Tanzanian endemics such as the yellow-collared
lovebird and ashy starling.
SAADANI
NATIONAL PARK
Palm trees sway in a cooling oceanic breeze. White sand and blue
water sparkle alluringly beneath the tropical sun. Traditional dhows
sail slowly past, propelled by billowing white sails, while Swahili
fishermen cast their nets below a brilliant red sunrise.
Saadani is where the beach meets the bush. The only wildlife sanctuary
in East Africa to boast an Indian Ocean beachfront, it possesses
all the attributes that make Tanzania’s tropical coastline
and islands so popular with European sun-worshippers. Yet it is
also the one place where those idle hours of sunbathing might be
interrupted by an elephant strolling past, or a lion coming to drink
at the nearby waterhole!
Protected as a game reserve since the 1960s, in 2002 it was expanded
to cover twice its former area. The reserve suffered greatly from
poaching prior to the late 1990s, but recent years have seen a marked
turnaround, due to a concerted clampdown on poachers, based on integrating
adjacent villages into the conservation drive.
Today, a surprisingly wide range of grazers and primates is seen
on game drives and walks, among them giraffe, buffalo, warthog,
common waterbuck, reedbuck, hartebeest, wildebeest, red duiker,
greater kudu, eland, sable antelope, yellow baboon and vervet monkey.
Herds of up to 30 elephants are encountered with increasing frequency,
and several lion prides are resident, together with leopard, spotted
hyena and black-backed jackal. Boat trips on the mangrove-lined
Wami River come with a high chance of sighting hippos, crocodiles
and a selection of marine and riverine birds, including the mangrove
kingfisher and lesser flamingo, while the beaches form one of the
last major green turtle breeding sites on mainland Tanzania.
SERENGETI
NATIONAL PARK
A million wildebeest... each one driven by the same ancient rhythm,
fulfilling its instinctive role in the inescapable cycle of life:
a frenzied three-week bout of territorial conquests and mating;
survival of the fittest as 40km (25 mile) long columns plunge through
crocodile-infested waters on the annual exodus north; replenishing
the species in a brief population explosion that produces more than
8,000 calves daily before the 1,000 km (600 mile) pilgrimage begins
again.
Tanzania's oldest and most popular national park, the Serengeti
is famed for its annual migration, when some six million hooves
pound the open plains, as more than 200,000 zebra and 300,000 Thomson's
gazelle join the wildebeest’s trek for fresh grazing. Yet
even when the migration is quiet, the Serengeti offers arguably
the most scintillating game-viewing in Africa: great herds of buffalo,
smaller groups of elephant and giraffe, and thousands upon thousands
of eland, topi, kongoni, impala and Grant’s gazelle.
The spectacle of predator versus prey dominates Tanzania’s
greatest park. Golden-maned lion prides feast on the abundance of
plain grazers. Solitary leopards haunt the acacia trees lining the
Seronera River, while a high density of cheetahs prowls the southeastern
plains. Almost uniquely, all three African jackal species occur
here, alongside the spotted hyena and a host of more elusive small
predators, ranging from the insectivorous aardwolf to the beautiful
serval cat.
But there is more to Serengeti than large mammals. Gaudy agama lizards
and rock hyraxes scuffle around the surfaces of the park’s
isolated granite koppies. A full 100 varieties of dung beetle have
been recorded, as have 500-plus bird species, ranging from the outsized
ostrich and bizarre secretary bird of the open grassland, to the
black eagles that soar effortlessly above the Lobo Hills.
As enduring as the game-viewing is the liberating sense of space
that characterises the Serengeti Plains, stretching across sunburnt
savannah to a shimmering golden horizon at the end of the earth.
Yet, after the rains, this golden expanse of grass is transformed
into an endless green carpet flecked with wildflowers. And there
are also wooded hills and towering termite mounds, rivers lined
with fig trees and acacia woodland stained orange by dust.
Popular the Serengeti might be, but it remains so vast that you
may be the only human audience when a pride of lions masterminds
a siege, focussed unswervingly on its next meal.
TARANGIRE
NATIONAL PARK
Day after day of cloudless skies.
The fierce sun sucks the moisture from the landscape, baking the
earth a dusty red, the withered grass as brittle as straw. The Tarangire
River has shrivelled to a shadow of its wet season self. But it
is choked with wildlife. Thirsty nomads have wandered hundreds of
parched kilometres knowing that here, always, there is water.
Herds of up to 300 elephants scratch the dry river bed for underground
streams, while migratory wildebeest, zebra, buffalo, impala, gazelle,
hartebeest and eland crowd the shrinking lagoons. It's the greatest
concentration of wildlife outside the Serengeti ecosystem - a smorgasbord
for predators – and the one place in Tanzania where dry-country
antelope such as the stately fringe-eared oryx and peculiar long-necked
gerenuk are regularly observed.
During the rainy season, the seasonal visitors scatter over a 20,000
sq km (12,500 sq miles) range until they exhaust the green plains
and the river calls once more. But Tarangire's mobs of elephant
are easily encountered, wet or dry.
The swamps, tinged green year round, are the focus for 550 bird
varieties, the most breeding species in one habitat anywhere in
the world.
On drier ground you find the Kori bustard, the heaviest flying bird;
the stocking-thighed ostrich, the world's largest bird; and small
parties of ground hornbills blustering like turkeys.
More ardent bird-lovers might keep an eye open for screeching flocks
of the dazzlingly colourful yellow-collared lovebird, and the somewhat
drabber rufous-tailed weaver and ashy starling – all endemic
to the dry savannah of north-central Tanzania.
Disused termite mounds are often frequented by colonies of the endearing
dwarf mongoose, and pairs of red-and-yellow barbet, which draw attention
to themselves by their loud, clockwork-like duetting.
Tarangire's pythons climb trees, as do its lions and leopards, lounging
in the branches where the fruit of the sausage tree disguises the
twitch of a tail.
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